Basic Ragù Bolognese

Ingredients

• 2 packets unflavored powdered gelatin
• 2 cups homemade or store-bought low-sodium broth
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 large carrots, peeled and finely minced
• 3 medium celery ribs; finely minced
• 2 medium yellow onions, finely minced
• 4 pounds ground meat, either all beef or 2 pounds beef with 1 pound each ground pork and veal, divided
• 1/4 cup tomato paste
• 1 1/2 cups dry white or red wine
• 2 bay leaves
• Kosher salt
• Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/2 teaspoon Asian fish sauce
• 1/2 cup heavy cream

Directions

1. Scatter the gelatin over the stock in a broad, shallow container, then leave it to hydrate while you start the sauce. Set a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat and melt the butter until it bubbles and foams. Add the carrots, celery, and onion, then cook, stirring now and then, until the vegetables look translucent, about 6 minutes.
2. Add half of the ground meat, 2 pounds, to the pot. Cook it, stirring occasionally and breaking down larger clumps as they appear, until the bottom of the pot is nicely browned, about 15 minutes.
3. Add the remaining 2 pounds meat. Continue cooking while stirring, loosening the browned bits from the base of the pot and crumbling the meat very finely, until no raw meat remains, about 6 minutes. If the pot starts to scorch, turn the heat down as needed.
4. Stir in the tomato paste and cook it for 2 minutes, keeping it moving so it does not catch. Pour in the wine, scrape the pot well, and bring the mixture to a boil. Cook until the sharp raw-alcohol aroma is gone, about 5 minutes, then add the bay leaves.
5. Pour the reserved stock into the Dutch oven, making sure all of the softened gelatin goes in too, and bring the sauce to a simmer. Reduce the heat so it barely bubbles. Add salt, the nutmeg, and the fish sauce, then let the sauce cook gently, stirring from time to time, until it has thickened and nearly all extra liquid has cooked away, about 3 hours.
6. Spoon off and discard any fat floating on top, and remove the bay leaves. Stir in the cream, then adjust with salt. Use the sauce now, chill it for up to 5 days, or freeze it for up to 3 months.