Buttermilk Ice Cream

Ingredients

• 7 ounces plain or lightly toasted sugar
• 3/4 ounce cornstarch
• 1/8 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use about half as much by volume or the same weight
• 2 large eggs
• 10 ounces cultured, lowfat buttermilk
• 8 ounces heavy cream, straight from the fridge
• 1/2 ounce apple brandy, or other fruity spirits, optional
• 1/4 teaspoon orange blossom water, optional

Directions

1. In a 3-quart stainless steel saucier, combine the sugar, cornstarch, salt, and eggs with a whisk, then whisk in the buttermilk. Set the pan over medium-low heat and cook, whisking gently the whole time, until the mixture feels warm, about 3 minutes. Turn the heat up to medium and keep whisking until the custard is thick and giving off steam, about 3 minutes longer. Once you see it start to bubble, set a timer and whisk for exactly 1 minute, which takes care of the starch-thinning enzyme in the yolks.
2. Pour the custard through a strainer into a non-reactive container. Whisk in the cream, brandy, and orange blossom water, if you are using them. Taste and add a little more salt if it needs it. Cover the base and chill it in the refrigerator until it is no warmer than 40 degrees F (4 degrees C), or bring it down to that temperature in an ice bath. While it chills, put a 1-quart container and a flexible spatula in the freezer.
3. Freeze the cold base in your ice cream maker, following the manufacturer’s instructions, until it turns thick, airy, and collects around the dasher, about 30 minutes, though the exact timing depends on the machine. Once it is ready, turn off the machine and use the chilled spatula to transfer the ice cream into the chilled container. Eat it right away as soft-serve, or press plastic wrap directly onto the surface, cover with the lid, and freeze until it is firm enough to scoop, about 4 hours.