Chiles Rellenos

Ingredients

• For the salsa ranchera and chilies:
• 6 Poblano peppers
• 2 pounds Roma tomatoes
• 1 small yellow onion, split in half, unpeeled
• 2 to 3 serrano chilies
• 6 medium cloves garlic, unpeeled
• 1/2 cup chicken stock or water
• 1/2 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves and tender stems
• 1 tablespoon lard or vegetable oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• For the filling:
• 1 small onion, finely diced
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1/2 pound fresh Mexican chorizo or ground pork
• 10 ounces grated Jack, pepper Jack, Chihuahua, or cheddar cheese; 16 ounces if making smothered version
• To Fry:
• 2 cups vegetable oil
• 4 large eggs, separated
• 1 cup flour, divided

Directions

1. For the Salsa Ranchera and Chilies: Move an oven rack so it sits 4 inches under the broiler, then heat the broiler on high. Arrange the Poblanos, tomatoes, onion, serranos, and garlic on a rimmed baking sheet covered with foil. Broil until the tops of the chilies are charred, about 5 minutes. Rotate the chilies so a pale side faces up, then broil for another 5 minutes. Turn the chilies again, turn the tomatoes as well, and keep broiling for a few minutes longer, until the chilies are blackened all the way around. Put the tomatoes, onion, garlic, serranos, stock, and cilantro in a food processor or blender. Use the foil from the baking sheet to enclose the Poblanos, then leave them to steam. Blend the salsa until it is mostly smooth, with a little texture left.
2. Warm 1 tablespoon (15ml) lard or oil in a medium saucepan until it is just beginning to smoke. Pour in the salsa right away, standing back a bit because it will bubble hard. Bring it to a simmer, then cook until it has reduced by about 1/2 cup. Add salt and pepper to taste, then reserve it.
3. For the Filling: In a large skillet over medium-high heat, warm 1 tablespoon (15ml) lard or vegetable oil until it shimmers. Stir in the onion and cook until it softens and takes on a light golden color, about 4 minutes. Add the oregano and the chorizo or pork, breaking the meat apart with a wooden spoon as it cooks, until no longer raw, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Scrape the hot pork mixture into a bowl with the grated cheese and toss everything together. Set it aside.
4. Peel the chilies gently, taking care not to rip them. Cut a slit in one chili and remove most of the seeds. Fill the inside with the cheese and pork mixture, then close the chili carefully, letting the edges overlap a bit. Do the same with the rest of the chilies. For the smothered version, there should be about 1 cup of extra filling to use later.
5. To Fry: Pour the oil into a large skillet and heat it over medium-high heat until it registers 375 degrees F. Regulate the burner as needed to hold that heat. Beat the egg whites until they stand in stiff peaks. Add the yolks, whisking them in one at a time just until blended, without overdoing it. Scatter 1/4 cup flour over the eggs and whisk only until the flour disappears. Set the batter aside.
6. Spread the remaining flour on a shallow plate. Lift one chili carefully and turn it in the flour until coated. Move it into the egg batter and turn it gently to cover it; if it seems too delicate, spoon batter over the top instead. With your hands or a flexible fish spatula, ease the chili into the hot oil. Continue with more chilies until the skillet is filled but not crowded. If any top spots are missing batter, add a little extra on those areas to cover them. Fry until the underside is golden, about 2 minutes. Turn carefully and cook the other side until browned, about 2 minutes longer. Move the finished chilies to a plate lined with paper towels. Continue the same way until every chili has been fried.
7. For the Traditional Version: Add salsa to the bottom of a casserole dish. Arrange the chilies on top, then add a little more salsa over them. Serve right away, or warm them for a few minutes in a 375 degrees F oven if you want to reheat them.
8. For the Smothered Version: Add salsa to the bottom of a casserole dish. Place the chilies over it, then spoon a little more salsa on top. Cover with the reserved filling mixture. Bake in a 375 degrees F oven until the topping is melted and bubbling, about 10 minutes. Serve right away.