Goat or Lamb Ribs, Dong-Bei Style

Ingredients

• 1 rack of goat or lamb ribs
• 1/2 cup Shaoxing wine
• 1 onion, roughly chopped
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1/4 cup whole cumin seeds
• 1/2 piece star anise
• 1 clove
• 12 to 16 small dried red chili peppers, optional
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil or butter

Directions

1. Set the ribs in a saute pan or roasting pan. For stovetop cooking, pour in the wine and add just enough water to barely cover the meat. Add the onions and salt, cover the pan with a lid or aluminum foil, bring everything to a simmer, and cook until the ribs are tender, about 2 hours.
2. For the oven method, set an oven rack in the center and preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Put the rack of ribs in a roasting pan, pour in the wine, and scatter the onions around the pan. Add water until it reaches 3/4 of the way up the ribs. Cover the pan with a lid or aluminum foil, bring it to a simmer on the stovetop, then move it to the oven and cook until tender, about 2 hours.
3. Meanwhile, warm a skillet over medium heat until it is hot. Add the cumin seeds, star anise, and clove, and toast just until aromatic, about 20 seconds. Take the pan off the heat and let the spices cool. Crush them with a mortar and pestle or in a spice grinder, stopping when the cumin seeds are broken into coarse pieces rather than a fine powder.
4. If you are using the chili peppers, put the skillet back over medium heat. Toast the dried chili peppers only until they become fragrant, about 30 seconds. Remove them from the heat and let them cool, then crush them with a mortar and pestle or pulse them in a spice grinder until roughly ground. Stir them into the cumin mixture.
5. Once the ribs are tender, take them off the heat, move them to a paper towel to blot away extra moisture, and let them cool a little. Dry them thoroughly. Warm the oil or butter in a large non-stick skillet over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the ribs and cook until one side is golden brown and crisp, about 5 minutes. Turn them over and brown the second side.
6. After the ribs have browned, transfer them to a platter and blot away any extra oil with a paper towel. While they are still hot, sprinkle the spice mixture over the ribs, pressing it gently so it clings to the meat. Serve immediately.