Jjajangmyeon

Ingredients

• 1 cup vegetable oil, plus more for stir-frying the meat and aromatics
• One 8-ounce jar black bean sauce
• 6 large shell-on shrimp
• 6 ounces boneless, skinless pork belly, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 2 scallions, white and light-green parts only, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1/2 teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger
• 1 small yellow onion, cut into 1/4-inch dice, divided
• 1 teaspoon Korean soy sauce, plus more to taste
• 1 small white potato, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1 cleaned squid body, cut into 1/4-inch dice
• 1 tablespoon oyster sauce, plus more to taste
• 1 1/2 teaspoons sugar
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon potato starch mixed with 2 teaspoons water
• Enough jjajangmyeon noodles for 4 servings
• Julienned cucumber, cooked green peas, or thinly sliced scallions, for garnish

Directions

1. If you are frying the black bean sauce first, pour the oil into a wok and warm it over high heat until an instant-read thermometer registers 350 degrees F (180 degrees C). Rest the wok spatula in the oil while it heats, so the hot metal helps the sauce release instead of clinging when it goes in. Add the black bean sauce and cook it, stirring the whole time, just until it starts to look a little curdled. Right away, scrape the sauce and all of the frying oil into a heatproof container. When in doubt, stop early, since black bean sauce that has been fried too far will tighten into clumps and become harder to use later.
2. To make the jjajangmyeon, bring a small saucepan of water to a simmer and poach the shrimp until the outsides have just turned pink but the centers are not fully cooked, about 30 seconds. Drain them, remove the shells, and chop the shrimp into 1/4-inch dice.
3. In a clean wok, warm about 3 tablespoons (45ml) vegetable oil over high heat until it smokes. If you fried the bean sauce, you can use some of that oil here. Add the pork belly, arranging it in a single layer. Let it sear undisturbed for 30 seconds, then stir and toss it steadily until browned on all sides, about 30 seconds more. If you are cooking over gas, small flare-ups may happen; they should settle quickly and add flavor to the stir-fry.
4. Add the scallion, ginger, and about 3 tablespoons diced onion. Stir and toss until aromatic, about 20 seconds. Pour in the soy sauce along the inside wall of the wok so it hits the hot surface and sizzles, then keep stirring for 10 seconds longer.
5. Add the potato and squid, and cook while stirring and tossing constantly until the potato is about halfway done, about 3 minutes. Add the remaining onion and continue stirring and tossing until it has softened, about 1 minute. Add the black bean sauce in 1-tablespoon (15ml) spoonfuls, leaving behind too much of its frying oil, and toss so everything is coated. The amount depends on your taste, but you want a strong black bean flavor and a deep, very dark brown color throughout. About 5 heaping tablespoons of the black bean sauce may be enough.
6. Add the shrimp and toss everything together. Stir in the oyster sauce and sugar until evenly mixed, then season with black pepper. Add water, 1 tablespoon (15ml) at a time, until the mixture loosens into a thick sauce that still flows. Keep cooking until the potato is just tender, stirring often and reducing the heat as needed so the sauce does not scorch.
7. Continue adjusting the sauce with more water as needed, adding it about 1 tablespoon (15ml) at a time, until it has a saucy texture. If it gets too loose, stir in 1 teaspoon (5ml) potato-starch slurry and bring it to a simmer so the liquid thickens. Repeat with small splashes of water and slurry as needed, until the sauce is shiny, thick, and slowly pourable. Taste and adjust with more oyster sauce or soy sauce if you like.
8. While the sauce finishes, boil the jjajangmyeon noodles according to the package directions. Drain them and divide them among serving bowls. Spoon the jjajangmyeon sauce over the noodles, add cucumber, peas, or scallions on top, and serve.