New Orleans–Style Red Beans and Rice

Ingredients

• 1 pound red kidney beans
• Kosher salt
• 1 tablespoon vegetable oil or lard
• 1 pound cooked andouille sausage, cut into 1/2-inch disks
• 1 large onion, finely chopped
• 1 green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and finely chopped
• 4 ribs celery, finely chopped
• 4 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1/2 teaspoon to 1 tablespoon ground cayenne pepper
• 1 teaspoon ground sage
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 1 smoked ham hock, optional
• 8 ounces pickled pork shoulder or rind
• 4 sprigs fresh thyme
• 3 bay leaves
• Hot sauce, such as Crystal or Frank's, to taste
• Cider vinegar, to taste
• Cooked white rice, for serving

Directions

1. Put the beans in a large bowl, then pour in 6 cups (1.5L) cold water. Stir in 2 tablespoons (30g) kosher salt until it dissolves, and leave the bowl at room temperature for 8 to 16 hours. Drain the beans and rinse them well.
2. Warm the oil or lard in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the andouille and cook, stirring now and then, until it has a little color, about 5 minutes. Add the onion, bell pepper, and celery, season with salt, and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are softened and the edges are beginning to brown, about 8 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook until you can smell it, about 45 seconds. Add the cayenne, sage, and a generous 10 to 12 grinds of fresh black pepper, then cook, stirring, until aromatic, about 30 seconds.
3. Add the beans to the pot, then pour in enough water to cover them by about 2 inches, roughly 6 to 8 cups. Add the ham hock, if using, the pickled pork, if using, along with the thyme and bay leaves. Bring everything to a boil, then lower the heat to the gentlest simmer. Cover and cook until the beans are fully tender, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours. Older beans can need more time.
4. Take off the lid and keep simmering, stirring from time to time, until the liquid thickens and becomes creamy, about 20 minutes. If the pot looks dry before the mixture gets creamy, stir in a cup of water and continue to simmer. Do that again as needed until the texture is where you want it. Remove and discard the bay leaves and thyme stems. Adjust the seasoning with hot sauce, a few teaspoons of cider vinegar, if using, plus more salt and pepper. For the best texture, cool the beans and refrigerate them overnight. Reheat them the next day, adding a little water to loosen them to your preferred consistency. Spoon the red beans over steamed white rice.