Slow and Low Country Ribs

Ingredients

• 4 country ribs, about 3 pounds
• Kosher salt
• Vegetable oil
• The barbecue sauce of your choice

Directions

1. Country ribs are often more than 1 foot long, so cut them in half before they go on the heat; smaller pieces are much easier to maneuver. Rub the ribs with oil, then season them generously with kosher salt. Plenty of fat will melt out as they cook, and that crisp, salty edge is part of the prize.
2. For the first round, cook the ribs slowly for 90 min. You can put them in a 250 degrees F oven in a foil-lined baking pan with the pan covered. You can also use a gas grill with the lid down and half the burners off, arranging the ribs away from direct flame. Or arrange a large charcoal grill to work like a smoker and place the ribs on the cooler side with the lid on. Best of all, build a wood fire on 1 side of the grill and barbecue the ribs slowly in the smoke.
3. Whichever route you choose, leave the ribs alone for 90 minutes. At the 90-minute mark, flip them and brush with barbecue sauce. Use whichever sauce sounds good: a sweet-hot Dr. Pepper version, a mustardy South Carolina sauce, Bourbon BBQ sauce, or Kansas City-style barbecue all work here.
4. After that, about every 30 minutes, turn the ribs and coat them again with sauce. The total time depends on the heat of your fire: figure on at least 3 hours and possibly as long as 5 hours. These ribs are fatty, so a slower cook lets more fat drip away and gives you a smoother, more tender result. Do not rush it.
5. When the ribs start to break apart as you flip them, it is time to finish. Brush them with sauce again, then transfer them to the hot side of the grill. If you are cooking in the oven, put the ribs under the broiler.
6. Cook them for 1 minute or 2, just until the sauce caramelizes. Watch closely so they do not turn too dark; a little char is welcome, but you are not making charcoal.
7. Serve with coleslaw, potato salad, deviled eggs, or anything else you like. And yes, napkins are a good idea.