Stir-Fried Clams with XO Sauce

Ingredients

• Kosher salt
• 2 pounds fresh small clams, such as littlenecks, Manilas, or cockles
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 4 medium garlic cloves , thinly sliced
• 2 scallions , white and green parts divided and thinly sliced
• 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
• 1 fresh green or red Thai chili, stemmed and thinly sliced
• 1/2 cup Shaoxing wine
• 1/4 cup XO sauce

Directions

1. Pour cold water into a large bowl, then stir in enough salt that it tastes like seawater; if you’re measuring by weight, aim for a 3% salt solution. Slide in the clams and leave them for 30 minutes. Scoop the clams up and out of the bowl, then pour off the purging water; if grit is sitting in the bowl, rinse it clean and do the same soak again until the clams stop dropping sand, usually 2 to 3 rounds. Toss any clams that stay wide open after you give them a little poke.
2. Set a large skillet or wok over medium heat and warm the vegetable oil until it shimmers. Stir in the garlic, ginger, Thai chili, and white scallion parts, then cook, stirring often, until the aromatics are pale gold and just starting to soften, about 5 minutes.
3. Tip in the clams and Shaoxing wine, put on the lid, and turn the heat to high. Cook, peeking about every 30 seconds and moving each opened clam to a large heatproof serving bowl, until all of them have opened, about 5 minutes. Taste the liquid left in the pan for salt; if it has gone especially salty, loosen it with water, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it tastes balanced again.
4. Stir the XO sauce into the skillet and keep it moving until the sauce is hot and blended with the pan juices. Spoon the sauce over the clams, then finish with the reserved green scallion parts scattered on top. Serve right away.