Rasam, Indian Tomato Soup

Ingredients

• 3 pounds plump, ripe tomatoes, cut into small dice or roughly puréed
• 8 curry leaves
• 1 green chile, such as a serrano, sliced
• 4 cloves of garlic, minced
• 2 teaspoons of amchoor, divided
• Pinch of asafoetida
• 1 teaspoon of cumin seeds
• 2 teaspoons of coriander seeds, ground
• 1/2 teaspoon of charnushka
• 2 teaspoons of black mustard seeds
• 1 teaspoon of sweet paprika
• 1 tablespoon of dark brown or raw sugar, optional
• 3 tablespoons of ghee or vegetable oil
• Cilantro, for garnish

Directions

1. Set a soup pot over medium-high heat. Before cooking, organize the spices into 3 quick-to-add groupings: mustard seeds by themselves, the curry leaves, chile, and garlic together as the wet spices, and the dry spices together, with a teaspoon of the amchoor held back for the finish.
2. Pour in the ghee or oil, and warm it until the surface glints and a cumin seed snaps the moment it hits the pot. Add the mustard seeds next, and give them time to start popping.
3. Once the mustard seeds are jumping, drop in the wet spices and turn them through the fat. After a few seconds, add the dry spices and stir again so everything is coated. As soon as the aroma gets bold and toasty, tip in the tomatoes; move quickly here, because the spices should toast, not scorch.
4. Bring the soup up to a boil, then lower the heat to a moderate simmer. For about 20 to 30 minutes, keep it simmering, tasting along the way for seasoning, sugar if it needs balancing, and water if the broth is too concentrated; about 2 cups can be added near the end of the simmer if needed. The liquid should be fairly thin, but still full-flavored.
5. Once the 20 to 30 minutes are up, the spice flavors should feel well blended. Just before serving, stir in the remaining amchoor. Finish with cilantro, then bring it out before a meal or alongside fritters for dipping.