Thai Curries, Part One: Lobster in Yellow Curry Sauce

Ingredients

• 14-ounce can of coconut milk, left undisturbed for several hours
• 4 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 6 tablespoons yellow curry paste
• 1 teaspoon hot curry powder, or 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• Salt to taste, about 1 teaspoon
• 2 live lobsters, about 1 1/2 pounds each
• 3 to 4 kaffir lime leaves, or 6 basil leaves as a garnish

Directions

1. Start the sauce by opening the coconut milk and lifting off the thick cream from the top, about 4 tablespoons. Stir the milk left in the can so the cream blends back in.
2. Add the oil to a large nonstick pan with a lid and warm it over medium heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, spoon in the coconut cream and yellow curry paste. Cook, stirring the paste through the cream, until the paste has taken on a little color and the oil separates from the coconut.
3. Stir in the curry powder with a few turns of the spoon. Pour in the coconut milk, then add about 1/2 cup of water to loosen the sauce. Use more or less water depending on how thick you want it. Season with salt, stir, and let the sauce come to a simmer.
4. Put the lid on the pot and let the sauce simmer over low heat for about 5 minutes. If you want to work ahead, keep it covered for 2 to 3 hours.
5. For the lobster, twist the tail away from the head and body. Remove the legs and set them aside, then twist off the front claws. With a cleaver or heavy knife, cut the claws into 3 sections and set them aside. Cut the tail the same way, making 3 or 4 sections. Reach into the head and take out the stomach sac, then split the head lengthwise into 2 pieces. Spoon the tomalley into a small bowl and save it.
6. When it is time to eat, bring the curry sauce back to a simmer. Add all of the lobster pieces and stir carefully. Let the sauce return to a simmer, cover the pot, and cook gently for 10 minutes. Now and then, move the lobster around and spoon sauce over the pieces. Keep simmering only until the lobster meat is cooked through, and do not let it go too far. During the final 2 minutes, add the tomalley and stir gently.
7. Chop the kaffir or basil leaves and stir them into the pot. Serve immediately.