Shrimp Étouffée

Ingredients

• For the shrimp stock:
• 2 pounds shell-on shrimp, or 3 pounds head-on shrimp
• 2 teaspoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use about half as much by volume
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 3 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 2 large ribs celery, diced
• 4 medium cloves garlic, smashed
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1/2 cup dry sherry or brandy, optional
• 1 bay leaf
• A few sprigs flat-leaf parsley
• 4 sprigs thyme
• For the étouffée:
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 medium yellow onion, diced
• 2 large ribs celery, diced
• 1 large green bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, and diced
• 4 medium cloves garlic, coarsely chopped
• 3 scallions, white and light-green parts only, thinly sliced, plus more for garnish
• 1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1/4 teaspoon onion powder
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1/8 teaspoon hot paprika, optional
• 3 cups shrimp stock, plus more as needed
• 2 bay leaves
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Warm long-grain rice, for serving

Directions

1. For the shrimp stock, remove the shells from the shrimp and devein them, saving the shells as you go. If your shrimp have heads, twist those off and keep them with the shells. Toss the peeled shrimp in a medium bowl with the 2 teaspoons salt and 1/2 teaspoon baking soda until evenly coated, then put the shrimp in the refrigerator until they go into the étouffée.
2. Set a heavy-bottomed stockpot or Dutch oven over high heat and warm the oil until it shimmers. Add the reserved shrimp shells, along with the heads if you have them, and cook while stirring constantly. Scrape the bottom as browned bits appear, continuing until those bits become stubborn and look close to burning, about 4 minutes. Turn down the heat whenever you need to keep anything from scorching.
3. Add the onion, celery, and garlic to the pot, and keep cooking while stirring and scraping until the vegetables have softened. Stir in the tomato paste until it is worked through the mixture. If you are using sherry or brandy, pour it in, bring it to a boil, and scrape the pot well before adding 2 quarts (1.9L) water. If you are skipping the alcohol, add the water at this point instead.
4. Drop in the bay leaf, parsley, and thyme, and bring the liquid to a gentle simmer. Cook for 45 minutes, then strain the stock. Leave the oil on top rather than skimming it off, since it carries plenty of shrimp flavor and will work nicely in the étouffée.
5. For the étouffée, melt the butter in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat until it foams. Add the flour and stir it into a smooth paste. Cook the roux, stirring and scraping the bottom often, until it reaches the shade you like: light tan, peanut butter-colored, or chocolaty brown. A lighter roux will make the étouffée milder and sweeter with more delicate shrimp flavor, while a darker roux brings a deeper, slightly bitter complexity.
6. Add the onion, celery, and bell pepper, then reduce the heat to medium. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables are covered in the roux and have softened a bit, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and scallion, stir them in, and cook for 1 minute.
7. Mix in the dried oregano, dried thyme, garlic powder, onion powder, cayenne, and, if you are using it, the hot paprika.
8. Add the shrimp stock a ladleful at a time, stirring thoroughly after each addition. The mixture will look thick and pasty at first, then loosen and become a rich sauce as more stock goes in. Bring it to a simmer, then adjust the heat so it barely bubbles.
9. Add the bay leaves, season with salt and pepper, then cover the pot. Simmer, stirring now and then and scraping the bottom so it does not scorch, until the vegetables are very soft, about 30 minutes.
10. Stir in the shrimp and cook just until they turn pink and are cooked through; the timing will depend on their size. If the étouffée is thicker than you want, stir in additional stock until it reaches the consistency you like.
11. Taste and season the étouffée with salt and pepper. Spoon it into bowls or onto plates with warm rice, finish with thinly sliced scallions, and serve.