Shrimp Fra Diavolo

Ingredients

• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
• 3/4 pound large shrimp, shelled and deveined, shells reserved
• Large pinch baking soda
• 6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 4 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano
• 1 to 2 teaspoons red chili flakes
• 2 tablespoons brandy, optional
• 1 can whole peeled tomatoes and their juices, coarsely pureed or crushed by hand
• 1/2 cup bottled clam juice
• 1 pound spaghetti
• 1/4 cup minced flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems

Directions

1. Fill a large pot with salted water and bring it to a boil. In a medium bowl, coat the shrimp with the 1/2 teaspoon salt and the baking soda, then put them aside. Warm 4 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet or sauté pan over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the reserved shrimp shells and cook, stirring the whole time, until the shells are red all over, about 4 minutes. Take the pan off the heat, then lift out the shells with tongs, a slotted spatula, and/or a slotted spoon, letting the oil drip back into the pan as you work. Discard the shells. There should still be a good amount of oil in the skillet.
2. Set the skillet back over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring and flipping them now and then, until they are nearly cooked through and beginning to pick up a little color in places, about 3 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat, move the shrimp to a plate, and set them aside.
3. Put the skillet over medium-low heat. Stir in the garlic, oregano, and chili flakes, and cook until the garlic just starts to turn golden, about 3 minutes. If you are using brandy, add it and cook until it has nearly disappeared. Stir in the tomatoes and clam juice, bring the sauce to a simmer, and season with salt.
4. Cook the pasta in the boiling salted water until al dente. Drain it, saving about 1 cup of the pasta cooking water, then add the pasta to the sauce with a splash of that reserved water. Add the shrimp and cook over medium-high heat, stirring, until the sauce tightens enough to coat the pasta and the shrimp are hot all the way through. If the sauce gets too thick or dry, loosen it with more pasta water as needed. Taste and add salt if necessary.
5. Stir in the parsley and the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Serve right away.