The Best Chili Ever

Ingredients

• 1 pound dried dark red kidney beans
• Kosher salt
• 4 quarts water
• 3 whole ancho, pasilla, or mulato chilies, seeded and torn into rough 1-inch pieces
• 2 whole New Mexico red, California, costeño, or choricero chilies, seeded and torn into rough 1-inch pieces
• 1 whole cascabel, árbol, or pequin chili, seeded and torn in half
• 5 pounds bone-in beef short ribs, trimmed of silver skin and excess fat
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1 quart low-sodium chicken broth, divided
• 2 whole anchovy fillets
• 1 teaspoon Marmite
• 2 teaspoons soy sauce
• 2 tablespoons tomato paste
• 1 1/2 tablespoons whole cumin seeds, toasted, then ground
• 1 1/2 teaspoons whole coriander seeds, toasted, then ground
• 2 whole cloves, toasted and ground
• 1 star anise, toasted and ground
• 1 tablespoon extra-finely ground coffee beans
• 1 ounce chopped unsweetened chocolate
• 1 large yellow onion, diced fine
• 3 fresh Thai bird chilies or 1 jalapeño, finely chopped
• 4 cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano leaves
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 can crushed tomatoes
• 1/4 cup cider vinegar, plus more to taste
• 1/4 cup vodka or bourbon
• 1 tablespoon Buffalo-style hot sauce, such as Frank's RedHot, or more to taste
• 2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
• For the Garnish:
• Scallions, sliced finely
• Cheddar, Jack, or Colby cheese, grated
• Sour cream
• Jalapeño or Poblano peppers, diced and seeded
• Onion, diced
• Avocado, diced
• Saltines
• Fritos

Directions

1. Combine the beans, 6 tablespoons kosher salt (or 3 tablespoons table salt), and the water in a large plastic container or bowl. Leave them at room temperature to soak for at least 8 hours, or overnight, then drain and rinse the beans.
2. Put the dried chilies in a large heavy-bottomed Dutch oven or stockpot over medium-high heat. Stir them often until they deepen slightly in color and smell richly toasted, 2 to 5 minutes, but do not let them smoke. Transfer the chilies to a small bowl and keep them aside. If you prefer, set the dried chilies on a microwave-safe plate and microwave on high in 15-second bursts until they are flexible and fragrant, about 30 seconds total.
3. Sprinkle the short ribs all over with salt and pepper. Pour the oil into the Dutch oven and warm it over high heat until it smokes. Add half the short ribs and sear them thoroughly on every side, working in 3 batches if your pot needs the space and avoiding crowding, 8 to 12 minutes total. Lower the heat if the fat smokes too aggressively or the meat starts to scorch. Move the browned ribs to a large rimmed baking sheet or plate, then brown the remaining short ribs in the fat left in the Dutch oven. When all the ribs are done, pour the rendered fat into a small bowl and reserve it, and let the short ribs cool at room temperature.
4. While the meat cools, set the Dutch oven back over medium-high heat and pour in 1 cup (240ml) chicken broth. Use a flat wooden spoon or firm spatula to work up the browned bits from the bottom of the pot. Adjust the heat so the broth barely simmers, add the toasted chilies, and cook until the chilies are soft and the liquid has reduced by half, 5 to 8 minutes. Pour the chilies and liquid into a blender. Add the anchovy, Marmite, soy sauce, tomato paste, ground spices, coffee, and chocolate, then blend on high, stopping to scrape the sides as needed, until the mixture is completely smooth, about 2 minutes. Set the chili purée aside.
5. Cut the meat away from the short rib bones and chop it by hand into rough 1/2-inch to 1/4-inch pieces, going smaller or larger if you like that texture better. Save the bones separately, and stir any juices from the meat into the chili purée.
6. Warm 4 tablespoons (60ml) of the reserved beef fat in a large Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed stockpot over medium heat until it shimmers, adding vegetable oil if needed to make 4 tablespoons total. Add the onions and cook, stirring often, until they are soft but not browned, 6 to 8 minutes. Stir in the fresh chilies, garlic, and oregano and cook until aromatic, about 1 minute. Add the chili purée and cook, stirring often and scraping the pot, until the mixture starts to sizzle in the fat and coats the bottom, 2 to 4 minutes. Add the chicken stock, chopped beef, beef bones, and bay leaves. Bring everything to a simmer, scraping the bottom again to release any browned bits. Turn the heat down as low as it will go, stir in the beans, and cook with the lid slightly open until the beans are nearly tender, about 1 hour. Add the crushed tomatoes and cider vinegar, then continue cooking with the lid slightly open until the beans and beef are fully tender and the liquid is rich and gently thickened, 2 to 3 1/2 hours longer. Add water as needed so the beans and meat stay mostly covered, though a little peeking above the surface is fine.
7. Use tongs to pull out and discard the bay leaves and bones. If there is meat still clinging to the bones, you can remove it, chop it, and return it to the chili if desired. Stir in the vodka or bourbon, hot sauce, and brown sugar. Taste and adjust with kosher salt, ground black pepper, and more vinegar.
8. Serve right away, or for deeper flavor, let the chili cool and refrigerate it overnight, or up to 1 week in a sealed container. Reheat and serve with the garnishes you like.