Whole Grilled Fish with Olive-Tomato Compote

Ingredients

• For the sauce:
• 5 ounces oil-cured olives, pitted
• 1/2 cup Kalamata olives, pitted
• 1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 medium cloves garlic
• 2 whole peeled plum tomatoes from a can, minced
• 1 teaspoon minced fresh oregano
• Freshly ground black pepper
• For the fish:
• 4 whole white-fleshed fish, such as sea bass, branzino, or porgy, scaled and gutted
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• Lemon slices, peeled garlic cloves, peeled ginger slices, fresh oregano sprigs, and fresh parsley sprigs, for stuffing
• Extra-virgin olive oil, for rubbing and drizzling
• Minced parsley, for garnish
• Lemon wedges, for serving
• Type of fire: two-zone indirect
• Grill heat: medium-high

Directions

1. For the sauce, add the two kinds of olives, the olive oil, and the garlic to a food processor. Pulse until you have a chunky paste, then fold in the tomatoes and oregano. Finish with black pepper and put the sauce aside.
2. For the fish, take it out of the refrigerator about 30 minutes before it goes on the grill so it can lose its chill. Start 1 chimney full of charcoal. Once the coals are fully lit and ashed over, dump them onto one side of the charcoal grate. Put the cooking grate on, close the grill, and let it heat for 5 minutes. Scrub the grate clean and oil it well.
3. Blot the fish very thoroughly with paper towels. Sprinkle salt and pepper over the outside and inside of each fish. Fill the cavities with lemon, garlic, ginger, and herbs, then coat the fish all over with olive oil.
4. Place the fish on the hot side of the grill and cook until the undersides are browned, about 5 minutes. Slide the tines of a carving fork between the grate and the fish, getting underneath it, and gently test whether it will release. If it sticks, cook it for 1 more minute before trying again. Once the fish comes away from the grate without a fight, flip it and continue cooking until a thermometer read in the thickest section shows 135 degrees F (57 degrees C), about 5 minutes longer. If the skin darkens too much before the fish is done, move it to the cooler side of the grill to finish. Rest the fish for 5 minutes.
5. Carve the fish and move the fillets to a plate. Spoon the olive compote over the top and sprinkle with minced parsley. Serve with lemon wedges.