A Tale of Beef, Three Ways

Ingredients

• 2 pounds chuck roast, short ribs, or brisket
• 3 or 4 veal bones with marrow, optional
• 2 medium carrots, peeled and cut in 1-inch chunks
• 1/2 a large onion, cut in large dice
• 2 ribs celery, cut in 1-inch chunks
• 1 large clove of garlic, smashed and peeled
• 1 cup canned plum tomatoes, diced or crushed
• 1/2 a large leek, cleaned thoroughly and cut in 1/2-inch slices
• 5 or 6 whole black peppercorns
• 2 or 3 whole allspice berries
• 2 bay leaves
• 3 sprigs of fresh thyme
• Kosher salt to taste
• 1 bunch Italian parsley, leaves only
• 4 salt-packed anchovies, filleted and rinsed
• 1 bunch mint, leaves only
• Fronds from 1 fennel bulb
• 2 tablespoon capers, preferably salt-packed, rinsed and drained
• 1 hard-boiled egg, roughly chopped
• 4 cornichons
• 2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
• 1 cup extra virgin olive oil
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Shredded boiled beef
• Finely chopped celery, ribs and leaves
• Finely chopped red onion
• Minced fresh parsley
• Finely chopped cornichon
• A generous pinch of dried Italian oregano or fresh oregano, finely minced
• A pinch of red chili flakes
• Red Wine Vinegar
• Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Directions

1. Wash the beef to remove any surface blood, then dry it well with a paper towel. Add the vegetables, spices, and herbs to a stockpot along with 3 quarts of cold water. Bring everything to a boil, then add the beef and the optional bones, making sure the meat is fully covered by the liquid. Add some kosher salt, but save the final seasoning for later.
2. Bring the pot back up to a boil, spooning away the foam that rises to the top. Put the lid on, reduce the heat, and keep the liquid at a gentle, even simmer for 3 hours, until the beef is tender enough that a little corner pulls away easily when you pinch it. Remove the pot from the heat and leave everything to cool to room temperature, about 6 to 7 hours.
3. Taste the broth and finish seasoning it with more salt and freshly ground pepper. If you are serving it as soup, warm the broth as you like, then ladle it with or without the vegetables over tiny pasta or cooked rice. Offer grated Parmigiano Reggiano, Grana Padano, or Pecorino Romano at the table for sprinkling.
4. For the poached beef with salsa verde, chill the beef in the broth overnight before slicing so it holds together. Cut the chilled beef against the grain. For the salsa verde, add all the salsa ingredients to a blender and puree until smooth. Spoon the salsa verde over the cool beef slices, or serve it on the side.
5. For the beef salad, combine all the salad ingredients thoroughly. Transfer the mixture to a jar or airtight container and store it for at least 2 days. Before serving at room temperature, taste and adjust the seasoning, then add more vinegar and oil if it needs loosening. Serve with slices of Caciocavallo cheese.