Italian Seafood Salad

Ingredients

• 1/2 pound dry-packed bay or sea scallops, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
• 2 teaspoons grated zest and 1 cup juice from 8 to 10 lemons, divided
• 1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
• 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
• 4 medium cloves garlic, 2 crushed and 2 minced, divided
• 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided
• 2 pounds mussels, de-bearded and scrubbed
• 5 whole peppercorns
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 pound cleaned squid bodies and tentacles, bodies cut into 1/2-inch rings and large tentacles halved lengthwise
• 1/4 cup packed minced flat-leaf parsley leaves and tender stems
• Dash cayenne pepper
• Dash ground coriander seed, optional
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 2 stalks celery, sliced thinly on the bias
• 1/2 cored and peeled fennel bulb, cut lengthwise into quarters, then sliced thinly on the bias

Directions

1. Put the scallops in a bowl that will not react with citrus, add 6 tablespoons (90ml) lemon juice, and turn them until they are coated. Refrigerate the bowl for 1 hour at minimum, but no longer than 2 hours.
2. While the scallops rest, stir the shrimp with the salt and baking soda in a medium bowl, then refrigerate for 30 minutes.
3. Set a large saucepan over medium heat with 1 tablespoon (15ml) oil and 2 crushed garlic cloves. Let the garlic turn golden, about 4 minutes. Pour in 1 cup (240ml) water and turn the heat to high; once it simmers, add the mussels, cover the pan, and cook until the shells have opened, about 3 minutes. With a slotted spoon, lift the mussels into a large bowl, then refrigerate them until cold.
4. Pour 4 cups (960ml) cold water into the mussel cooking liquid, then add 2 tablespoons (30ml) lemon juice, the peppercorns, and the bay leaves. Add the shrimp without rinsing them, along with the squid, and place the pan over medium-high heat. As the liquid warms, stir now and then, and watch for it to register 170 degrees F on an instant-read thermometer. Keep cooking until the shrimp are opaque through the center. They may already be done at that point; adjust the heat as needed so the liquid never rises above 170 degrees F. Use a slotted spoon to lift the shrimp and squid into a large bowl, and refrigerate until cold. Throw out the poaching liquid, peppercorns, and bay leaves.
5. Remove the meat from all but 10 mussels and toss the empty shells. Split the shrimp lengthwise. For the dressing, take a medium bowl and add the parsley. Add the cayenne pepper and coriander seed if using, then the remaining 2 minced garlic cloves and the lemon zest. Pour in the remaining 1/2 cup (120ml) lemon juice and the remaining 1/2 cup (120ml) olive oil, then give it a thorough whisk.
6. After draining the scallops, put them in a large bowl with the shrimp, squid, mussel meat, and dressing. Add salt and pepper to taste, then toss until everything is coated. Fold in the 10 mussels still in their shells. After dressing, you can keep the seafood chilled for as long as 2 days; its flavor gets better while it rests.
7. When you are ready to serve, fold the celery and fennel into the seafood salad and toss thoroughly. The celery and fennel may go in as much as 30 minutes ahead of serving; any longer and they soften too much. Taste once more for salt and pepper, then serve it cold.