Ragù Alla Bolognese from the Glorious Pasta of Italy

Ingredients

• 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 large carrots, peeled and finely chopped
• 2 large celery ribs, finely chopped
• 1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 1 pound ground beef
• 1 pound ground pork
• 1 pound ground veal
• 1 cup dry white wine or dry sherry
• Kosher or fine sea salt
• Freshly ground black pepper
• Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 tin tomato paste
• 2 cups homemade meat broth or best-quality low-sodium, fat-free commercial beef broth
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 4 ounces thinly sliced mortadella, cut in julienne

Directions

1. Set a large Dutch oven or another sturdy, heavy pot over medium heat, then add the olive oil and butter. Once the butter has melted and is bubbling, add the garlic, carrots, celery, onion, and parsley. Turn the heat down to medium-low and cook the vegetables, stirring now and then, for about 10 minutes, until they have softened and taken on a golden color.
2. Add the beef, veal, and pork, and fold everything together well, breaking the meat apart with a wooden spoon as you go. Cook over medium-low to low heat, stirring often, until the meat is deeply browned and loose in texture, but still tender rather than tough. Plan on about an hour or slightly longer.
3. When the meat has reached that point, increase the heat to medium. Pour in the wine and stir for a few minutes, until it has cooked off. Add a little salt and pepper, sprinkle in the nutmeg, and stir in the milk. Continue cooking and stirring for 3 to 4 minutes, until the milk has disappeared into the sauce.
4. In a small bowl, loosen the tomato paste/puree with a splash or two of beef broth, then stir that mixture into the pot. Blend it in thoroughly, then pour in the rest of the broth. Leave the pot partly covered, lower the heat, and simmer the sauce gently for 2 hours or more, until it is extremely thick and the vegetables have mostly dissolved into the ragù.
5. Stir in the cream and mortadella, then let the sauce bubble softly just until everything is warmed through.