Smoky Barbecue Beans

Ingredients

• 1 pound dried pinto beans, picked over
• Kosher salt
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil or lard
• 1 large onion, finely diced
• 2 stalks celery, finely diced
• 4 medium cloves garlic, minced
• 1 tablespoon ground cumin
• 1 tablespoon paprika
• 2 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper, plus more to taste
• 2 whole dried New Mexico, guajillo, California, or pasilla chilies, stems and seeds removed, finely chopped
• 2 teaspoons dried oregano
• 8 to 12 ounces leftover smoked beef, pork, or turkey, chopped
• 2 bay leaves
• 1/4 cup brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

Directions

1. For the stovetop version, put the beans in a large bowl and add enough water to cover them by at least 2 inches. Sprinkle in 1 tablespoon salt, stir until it dissolves, and leave the beans on the counter overnight. The next day, drain the beans and keep them nearby. Warm the vegetable oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the onion and celery, then cook, stirring now and then, until they soften, about 4 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook just until aromatic, about 30 seconds. Add the cumin, paprika, black pepper, dried chilies, oregano, and chopped meat, and cook while stirring until the spices bloom, about 30 seconds. Add the beans, bay leaves, and 8 cups (2L) water. Bring everything to a boil, lower the heat to the gentlest simmer, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the beans are fully tender and the liquid has cooked down into a rich sauce, about 3 hours. Stir in the sugar until it dissolves, then stir in the vinegar. Season with salt and pepper to taste, remove the bay leaves, and serve.
2. For the pressure cooker version, heat the vegetable oil in the pressure cooker over medium-high heat until shimmering; if you are using an electric model, use the sauté setting and let it preheat. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, until you can smell it, about 30 seconds. Stir in the cumin, paprika, black pepper, dried chilies, oregano, and chopped meat, and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the beans, bay leaves, and 6 cups (1.5L) water. Lock on the lid and cook on high pressure for 45 minutes. Take the cooker off the heat and vent the pressure in short bursts. Open the lid, then simmer until the beans are completely tender and the cooking liquid has reduced to a rich consistency, about 15 to 30 minutes. Stir in the sugar until dissolved, then stir in the vinegar. Add salt and pepper to taste, discard the bay leaves, and serve.