Epic New York Cheesecake

Ingredients

• For the graham cracker crust:
• 7 ounces graham cracker crumbs, store-bought or homemade, see note
• 1 ounce unsalted butter, melted
• Pinch of salt
• For the cheesecake:
• 32 ounces full-fat cream cheese, such as Philadelphia, brought to about 70°F/21°C
• 8 ounces fresh goat cheese, brought to about 70°F/21°C
• 1/2 ounce lemon juice, freshly squeezed
• 1/2 ounce vanilla extract
• 1/4 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use about half as much by volume or the same weight
• 1/4 teaspoon orange flower water
• 14 ounces plain or toasted sugar
• 6 large eggs
• 6 ounces heavy cream
• To Serve:
• 16 ounces fresh fruit, such as pitted and halved cherries, blueberries, sliced peaches, small strawberries, or some assortment thereof, optional
• 1 recipe complementary Fruit Syrup or jelly, for saucing the fruit, optional

Directions

1. Before you begin, set yourself up with a non-reactive aluminum pan measuring 8- by 4-inch; the easiest option is a non-latching 2-piece design. That pan can be elusive, but the custom-made version for this recipe fits the job; a standard cake pan in the same size is fine too, though getting the cheesecake out takes a bit more patience. You can bake cheesecake in other pans, but this batter amount, oven heat, and timing are written for this pan, so other shapes need their own adjustments. For a 2-piece pan, cover the base with foil before putting the pan together, then remove the extra foil so it rests level. For a standard cake pan, add a parchment round to the base. Whichever pan you choose, grease it lightly.
2. Drop the graham cracker crumbs, melted butter, and salt directly into the pan. Use a fork to mix them until the butter is evenly worked through, then taste for salt and add more if it needs it. Press the crumbs with your fingertips into a flat, even crust on the bottom.
3. Move an oven rack to the middle and heat the oven to 450 degrees F. Add both cheeses to the stand mixer bowl. Pour in the lemon juice and vanilla extract, then add the salt and orange flower water. Leave the sugar out for now. Start on low just to bring everything together, then switch to medium and beat until the cheeses are completely smooth, about 5 minutes. Around the midpoint, stop and sweep down the bowl and paddle with a flexible spatula.
4. Turn the mixer down to medium-low, pour in all the sugar, and stop as soon as it is incorporated. Take the bowl off the mixer and set a single-mesh sieve over it. Break the eggs into the sieve, whisking until the eggs slip through into the bowl; toss any chalazae caught in the mesh. Put the bowl back on the mixer, blend on low until the batter is uniform, and scrape the bowl and paddle again.
5. Bring the cream to a full boil in a 1-quart stainless steel pot. With the mixer running on low, pour in the hot cream in a smooth stream, then let the mixer run briefly. The warm cream heats the batter, nudging out any air pockets from mixing and shortening the bake. Bake the batter right away, or chill it in an airtight container for as long as 1 week. If it has been refrigerated, let it come to room temperature before it goes into the oven.
6. Pour the batter into the pan you prepared and set the pan on a baking sheet. Bounce a spoon across the top to coax up stray bubbles; if the surface is clear, move on, and if bubbles appear, keep bouncing until they disappear. Bake for about 20 minutes, until the edges have puffed and feel dry. In most ovens, some browned golden areas will show up on top, which adds deeper flavor. Turn the baking sheet if browning looks uneven. For a tighter-textured, lighter-colored cheesecake instead, move straight to the low-temperature bake at 250 degrees F; it may need 1 hour or longer.
7. Turn the oven off, open the door, and leave it cracked for 10 minutes. Shut the door again and bring the oven to 250 degrees F. Keep baking for about 35 minutes, until the outside edge feels set but the center ring still jiggles freely when you shake the pan. That jiggly area should measure 3-inches across at most. The cheesecake is ready when a digital thermometer pushed 2-inches deep into the dead center reads 145 degrees F. A thermometer poke will not split the cheesecake; cracks come from baking it too long.
8. Cool the cheesecake for 15 minutes. Slide a thin knife or offset spatula around the inside wall of the pan to free the sides, which lets the cake settle more evenly as it cools. Keep it on the counter at room temperature; give it at least 1 hour, or as long as 4, then cover and refrigerate until it is chilled all the way through, at least 12 hours.
9. For a loose-bottom cake pan, first free the cheesecake from the sides using an offset spatula or a thin knife. Set the pan on a large tomato can, or another sturdy object about that size, so the cheesecake is raised 4-inches above the counter and the base feels steady. Hold the pan by its sides with both hands and draw the outer ring downward, letting it fall away from the base. Move the cake to a flat work surface, work an offset spatula between the crust and the pan bottom, then slide the cheesecake onto a broad, flat serving plate. Cover it with plastic, and keep it refrigerated until you need it, up to 10 days.
10. For a standard cake pan, loosen the sides with an offset spatula or thin knife. Place the cake pan in scalding hot water a few inches deep until the metal warms; a roasting pan is handy for this. Lay plastic wrap over the cheesecake to shield the top, invert it onto a large, flat plate, and lift off the pan. It should release cleanly; if it resists, return it to the hot water for a little longer. Once the pan is off, remove the parchment from the crust, then flip the cheesecake right-side up onto a serving plate. Cover with plastic and refrigerate until you want it, up to 10 days.
11. If you are using fruit, put it in a large bowl with the warmed fruit syrup or jam. Use a flexible spatula to fold gently until everything looks glossy and the fruit is coated. Slice the cheesecake with a large chef's knife warmed in hot water; for neat pieces, rinse the blade under hot running water before each cut. Spoon the sauced fruit over the slices if you are using it, or finish with any other toppings and sauces you like.