Kumquat Marmalade

Ingredients

• 2 pounds kumquats, washed and sliced into thin rounds
• 2 cups granulated sugar
• 1/2 cup freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• Pinch of salt

Directions

1. Add the lemon slices to a large pot made from non-reactive material. Pour in enough cold water to cover them, then bring the pot to a boil. Lower the heat and let the lemons simmer until they look translucent, about 5 minutes. Drain them and throw out the cooking water.
2. Return the blanched lemons to the same pot. Gather the seeds from the lemons and kumquats in a piece of cheesecloth or étamine, tying it well so nothing escapes. Add that seed bundle to the pot with the sliced kumquats and water. Bring everything to a boil, then take the pot off the heat, cover it, and leave it to stand for 24 hours.
3. The next day, place a small plate in the freezer. If you are using a candy thermometer, attach it to the side of the pot now.
4. Stir the sugar and salt into the pot, then cook the marmalade over medium heat for 30 to 45 minutes. Take out the seed bag, and once it is cool enough to touch, press the seeds over the pot so the pectin drips back into the marmalade. You can squeeze the cheesecloth by hand, or set the bundle in a ladle and press it with the back of a soup spoon, taking care not to split the fabric and let the seeds out.
5. Cook the marmalade a little longer, until it reaches the setting stage, about 220ºF (104ºC) degrees on a candy thermometer. To check without relying only on temperature, take the pot off the heat, spoon a small bit onto the cold plate, and put the plate back in the freezer briefly. After a few minutes, look for a light gel and a small wrinkle when you push your finger through it. If it is not there yet, keep cooking and repeat the chilled-plate test until the marmalade wrinkles slightly when nudged.
6. Take the pot off the heat, stir in the kirsch if you are using it, and spoon the marmalade into clean jars.