Light and Tender Chinese Lotus Seed Buns

Ingredients

• For the lotus-seed paste filling:
• 11 ounces dried lotus seeds
• Water
• 1/4 cup neutral oil, such as vegetable or canola oil
• 1/2 to 3/4 cups sugar
• For the buns:
• 1 1/4 cups low-protein flour, such as cake or pastry flour, or 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour mixed with 2 tablespoon cornstarch
• 1 1/2 tablespoon sugar
• 1/4 teaspoon active dry yeast
• 1/4 teaspoon baking powder
• 1 tablespoon glutinous rice flour
• 1/4 cup water
• 1 tablespoon heavy cream
• Yellow or pink food coloring, optional

Directions

1. For the lotus-seed paste filling, rinse the lotus seeds, then soak them in a large bowl of water until they soften, at least 4 hours or overnight.
2. Split each seed in half and pull out the tiny bitter sprout from the center.
3. Put the lotus seeds in a large pot and add enough water to cover them completely. Bring the pot to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer, adding water as needed so the seeds stay covered, until tender, about 1 hour.
4. Scoop out 1 cup of the cooking liquid and keep it nearby, then drain the lotus seeds.
5. Transfer the seeds to a food processor or blender, add a splash of the reserved cooking liquid, and blend until smooth, adding more of that liquid if the paste needs help moving. For a smoother finish, press the paste through a fine sieve, though you can skip that if you like a little less fuss.
6. Combine the lotus-seed paste and oil in a nonstick skillet over medium heat, stirring with a spatula or wooden spoon until the oil is worked in. Stir in 1/2 cup sugar until it disappears into the paste. Taste, and if you want it sweeter, add the remaining 1/4 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, until it is where you want it.
7. Take the skillet off the heat and set the paste aside. You can prepare the lotus-seed paste earlier and chill it for up to 3 days, or freeze it for up to 6 months.
8. For the buns, stir the low-protein flour or all-purpose flour mixture with the sugar, yeast, baking powder, and glutinous rice flour in a large bowl. Add the water and mix until it is absorbed.
9. Add the cream and keep mixing until you have a loose, shaggy dough. Scrape it onto a work surface and knead until the dough becomes smooth.
10. Roll the dough into a rope 1 inch thick. Cut it into 10 portions.
11. Working with 1 piece at a time, use a rolling pin, dowel, or glass bottle to roll the dough into 3-inch rounds.
12. Place 1 scant tablespoon of the lotus-seed paste in the center of each dough round.
13. Handle 1 bun at a time, bringing the dough up around the filling so it is fully enclosed.
14. Arrange the buns seam side down on a lightly floured or parchment-lined plate or baking sheet.
15. Using gentle pressure with a dough scraper or the back of a knife, make an indent on the top of each bun.
16. Drape plastic wrap over the buns and let them stand for 20 minutes.
17. Line a steamer insert with parchment paper and get it ready for steaming.
18. If you are using food coloring, brush it over the top of each bun with a pastry brush.
19. Place the buns in the prepared steamer, leaving 1 1/2 inches between them.
20. Steam for about 15 minutes, until the buns are puffed and cooked through. Serve hot or at room temperature.