Really Good Oven-Fried Buffalo Wings

Ingredients

• 1 to 4 pounds chicken wings, cut into drumettes and flats
• 1 teaspoon baking powder per pound of chicken wings
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt per pound of chicken wings
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter per pound of chicken wings
• 2 tablespoons Frank's RedHot Sauce per pound of chicken wings
• Blue cheese dressing, for serving
• Celery sticks, for serving

Directions

1. Cover a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil, then fit a wire rack into the pan. Pat the chicken wings very dry with paper towels. Put the wings in a large bowl with the baking powder and salt, then toss until the coating is evenly distributed. Arrange the wings on the rack with a little room around each piece. Do the same with the remaining 2 batches of wings.
2. Move the baking sheet to the refrigerator and leave the wings uncovered for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours.
3. Set an oven rack in the upper-middle position and heat the oven to 450 degrees F (230 degrees C). Put the wings in the oven and bake for 20 minutes. Turn the wings over, then bake until they are crisp and deeply golden, another 15 to 30 minutes, turning them a few additional times near the finish.
4. While the wings cook, put the butter and hot sauce in a small saucepan over medium heat, whisking until smooth and blended. Place the cooked wings in a large bowl, pour in the sauce, and toss until every piece is well coated. Serve right away with blue cheese dressing and celery sticks, while cheerfully ignoring any Buffalo wing purists who insist frying is the only way.