Steam-Roasted Indian-Spiced Cauliflower

Ingredients

• 1 head cauliflower, cut into florets
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 teaspoon ground coriander
• 1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
• 1/4 teaspoon chili powder, optional
• Salt and pepper to taste
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Directions

1. Set an oven rack in the middle position, then heat the oven to 450°F. On a large rimmed baking sheet, drizzle 3 Tbs. of the oil over the cauliflower and garlic; add 3/4 tsp. salt and a few twists of black pepper, and toss to coat. Turn the florets so their cut sides sit against the pan, and spread them out in a single layer. Seal the pan well with foil, slide it into the oven, and let the cauliflower steam for 10 minutes.
2. Take off the foil carefully, turn the pan around, and roast until the underside has browned well, 10 to 15 minutes. Turn the pieces over and return them to the oven until they are barely tender and richly browned, 10 to 12 minutes more.
3. While the cauliflower roasts, set a small heavy-duty skillet over medium heat and add the coriander and cumin. Shake the pan as they toast, and stop when the seeds smell fragrant and look lightly toasted, 1 to 2 minutes. Let them cool all the way, then move them to a spice grinder and grind until medium fine.
4. Warm the remaining 2 Tbs. oil in that skillet over medium-low heat. Stir in the ginger and cook until it smells fragrant, about 1 minute. Take the skillet off the heat, then mix in the cumin, coriander, turmeric, and cayenne. Swirl in the lemon juice.
5. Throw away the garlic, then spoon the cauliflower into a serving bowl. Pour over the spice mixture and toss gently. Taste and adjust with salt, scatter the cilantro over the top, if using, and serve.